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As requested by Master Milo, a little tutorial for metallics:
How to paint a shoulder pad, in rusty and dirty metals.
Step 1: The basecoat of an orc armour is a consistent mix of a dark metal colour (Chainmail or Boltgun, Citadel paints) and a little of black. I apply 2-3 thin layers of paint.
Step 2: Now I give a thin wash, applied very carefully, of mix of a bright red (Citadel Blood Red) and a brown (Citadel Bestial brown), at 50% each colour. This is the wet look when I apply the wash.
Step 3: This is the look of the dry wash.
Step 4: Now I give a more reddish wash (75% red – 25% brown of the colours of the step 2).
Step 5: Here I use Turquoise colour, around the spikes and along the contact zones of the different armour plates. I use the paint very liquid, almost 40-50% of water, and applied very carefully again.
Step 6: Here I repeat the last step, but mixing now the turquoise with a little of white, and applying the mix in the same zones, but in little smaller areas.
Step 7: now, with a clear colour (Citadel Bleached Bone), I shape the edges of the armour, to give definition to the whole.
Step 8: Finally I give a thin wash of black colour to all the metal (80% water). This is a picture of the average size of the miniature.
Hope it helps somebody!
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Thank you so much for providing such clear and detailed tutorials !
I am sure many of us will find something usefull. I didfind what I needed .
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It's been a year since last tutorial was posted here.
May I require Master Elroi to make a new one regarding most difficult part on mithrils ?
I would like to learn how you paint skin on a hobbit face
Last edited by Milo (Sun, Jan8 2012 11:35am)
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A promise is a promise, here is a step by step guide to paint a hobbit face, in a easy way:
First, apply a basecoat of flesh paint.
It´s up to you to choose the exact tone you wish. I used this one from Vallejo
Then, I give a thin wash of dark brown paint, and before it dries, remove the excess that may cumulate into deep areas
I used Scorched Brown, from Citadel
Now, the “problematic” steps. Using the flesh basecoat tone, plus a bit of Bleached Bone of Citadel (never use pure white), I give the lights around the face, following the scheme. I apply 2-3 very thin coats all around the surface marked in green. Its very important to dilute well the paint. Don´t mind if the first coat does not cover much, that´s why I use the 2-3 coats.
In this case, in mithril miniatures, I generally interpret the zone of the eyes as the eyelids, not the eyeballs (that’s why I paint them in flesh tone, and don´t paint the pupils).
After that, I give again 2-3 thin coats of the same mix, but using more bleached bone, in the zones marked in green again. Important to do it slowly and carefully.
Now, I do the shadowing, using a mix of Brown (the same as befote) and a bright orange. I dilute a lot the mix, and aply carefully in the shadow zones (see the scheme)
The final step is to apply a very thin wash of red+orange (with lot of water) at all the face (remember to remove the excess of water before it dries of all the areas), to give the skin a healthy look. I also gave a subtle shade of blue to the eyelids, to represent a little make-up (and to go together to the dress)
Well, that´s all folks! Hope it helps to paint these tiny friends!
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Very useful information. I've applied your advice, but with other colors. Instead of water I use thinner. Effects with diluted shades of color is almost the same as in your examples of painting. I refashioned the nearly 400 pieces... !!! Simply by coating with 40%, 50% and 70% diluted paint and changing colors. It is now all color schemes scales from dark to light. the consequences are that the average time painting for figurines is increased by at least 15 hours.... ! Hm... I am quite satisfied now ... !!!
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thanks a lot, great tutorial, elroi!
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Ah, now I see how I should work on faces.
That makes many layers for such a small face , but for sure, obtained result is just fantastic.
This hobbit woman looks pretty
Merci Roi !
Last edited by Milo (Wed, Feb1 2012 1:13pm)
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Happy to help!!
Thingol wrote:
V I refashioned the nearly 400 pieces... !!! Simply by coating with 40%, 50% and 70% diluted paint and changing colors
400!! lot of work, Master Thingol. But working with diluted paints and such amount of miniatures for sure has give you a lot of practice to improve your paintwork.
Master Milo, yes, there are lot of layers, but the surface is so small that the work is done very quickly
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Hello Gentlemen, I need your help please
To complete my tomb, I must refine the roof. But it's slate. Having never painted and not having as model around me (the roofs are made with tiles in my area), I don't know how to color it.
For now, I spent two layers of black paint: is it enough? do I need varnish to make it shine or do I need to brush other (s) paint (s) and if yes whom?
I await your tips with impatience
Thank you in advance
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sevlag wrote:
Hello Gentlemen, I need your help please
To complete my tomb, I must refine the roof. But it's slate. Having never painted and not having as model around me (the roofs are made with tiles in my area), I don't know how to color it.
For now, I spent two layers of black paint: is it enough? do I need varnish to make it shine or do I need to brush other (s) paint (s) and if yes whom?
I await your tips with impatience
Thank you in advance
I wonder if it may be worth repainting in a lighter colour, or at least give the roof a heavy application of dry-brushing to make the raised details come out, and then use a dark shade of chalk pastel to emphasise the edges and overlapping of the slate. I would probably do this, or alternately if you prefer you could apply a wash instead of pastels - remember with pastels you have to seal them using an aerosol sealer AND I have found that if you use a light pastel over a dark base, when you seal it the pastel can vanish - I found out the hard way (be careful of my terminology here in case pastels are known to you under a different name ).
It also depends on how long the Tomb has been waiting for Aragorn - if it is an open air tomb I would also add some white/loight streaks to depict discolouration be water - If it was a lead roof you could probably add a white wash to give that aged lead effect and streak the wash/paint. At such a small scale less is probably best though.
This is a farly quick answer as we are about to go out to eat, but hopefully will give you some food for thought.
David
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elroi wrote:
A promise is a promise, here is a step by step guide to paint a hobbit face, in a easy way:
First, apply a basecoat of flesh paint.
It´s up to you to choose the exact tone you wish. I used this one from Vallejo
Then, I give a thin wash of dark brown paint, and before it dries, remove the excess that may cumulate into deep areas
I used Scorched Brown, from Citadel
Now, the “problematic” steps. Using the flesh basecoat tone, plus a bit of Bleached Bone of Citadel (never use pure white), I give the lights around the face, following the scheme. I apply 2-3 very thin coats all around the surface marked in green. Its very important to dilute well the paint. Don´t mind if the first coat does not cover much, that´s why I use the 2-3 coats.
In this case, in mithril miniatures, I generally interpret the zone of the eyes as the eyelids, not the eyeballs (that’s why I paint them in flesh tone, and don´t paint the pupils).
After that, I give again 2-3 thin coats of the same mix, but using more bleached bone, in the zones marked in green again. Important to do it slowly and carefully.
Now, I do the shadowing, using a mix of Brown (the same as befote) and a bright orange. I dilute a lot the mix, and aply carefully in the shadow zones (see the scheme)
The final step is to apply a very thin wash of red+orange (with lot of water) at all the face (remember to remove the excess of water before it dries of all the areas), to give the skin a healthy look. I also gave a subtle shade of blue to the eyelids, to represent a little make-up (and to go together to the dress)
Well, that´s all folks! Hope it helps to paint these tiny friends!
Excellent advice and tips
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ddaines wrote:
There are no secrets Séverine, only answers . The cavern is expanded polystyrene foam, I think from packaging so part of the shape was already there. Over this I applied what we call Polyfiller - a DIY mix for filling in cracks and holes etc. on walls and such like.
The cobwebs............ well these were 'borrowed' from a real spider . You have to collect the web on smooth sticks or rod so that it does not catch when you remove it.
As the web sticks to every micro snag this is a method requiring patience!
To apply the web just carefully tease it out and try as best as you can to attach it to anchor points - I personally didn't use any glue, but I suppose you can.
If you were making web between trees, e.g. a Mirkwood diorama you can stick the trees or object into the web and twirl it around (see large scale figure below ).
The light of Earendil is a small dolls house light stuck to Sam's hand and the web hides the wire (unfortunately the transformer for the light set no longer works so unless I replace it, darkness will ever be on Shelob's Lair!
The waterfall is simply clear acetate sheet from a package that has Woodlands Scenics Water Effects/Realistic Water (I will go to my grave confusing the two products) squeezed on to it. I do aim to explain this technique with some forthcoming projects.
An interesting point which maybe Gildor can answer. I saw a comment posted by Milo regarding the Baldor figure, but I could not see any comment on the Shelob page from Séverine - am I missing soemthing Gildor?
Thank you for all these explanations very detailed, Master David . I don't know if I'll ever be able to do as well as you, but the day I'll make my Shelob I think I'll inspire of what you did.
And the picture you put : Wow .... amazing, very yuck (beurk in french), but very well done, but very yuck .... And cobweb very impressive : poor woman.
Last edited by sevlag (Tue, Feb26 2013 7:35pm)
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Gentlemen, I need your help again :
For a diorama I'm working on, I need a chandelier and mural lights, like these :
For the wall (with one or too lights) :
On the ceiling:
I don't find this type of lighting on French websites. Have you in your country some dealers of these accessories (with or without electricity), at the scale of our Mitrhil, where I can order them?
Thank you in advance for your help
Last edited by sevlag (Sat, Sep7 2013 3:51pm)
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I am thinking of priming my miniatures one day.
Which primer is best for having 'mithril' look and also thin layer easy to put ?
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I use the Mithril grey spray primer (in spray cans). I am very much satisfied with it. Unfortunately the company announced some time ago that they cannot ship that primer via airmail any more (new laws, or something like that). That would be a great loss, I think.
Michael also mentioned that Mithril was about testing a new primer for painting. So far I have not heard of that any more.
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yeah a pity we can't get this gray primer
was trying to get some too but too late due to laws...
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Maybe this reference is available outside the company. For instance, these is a Prince August shop in Toulouse. I will send them a mail.
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Theobald wrote:
I use the Mithril grey spray primer (in spray cans). I am very much satisfied with it. Unfortunately the company announced some time ago that they cannot ship that primer via airmail any more (new laws, or something like that). That would be a great loss, I think.
Michael also mentioned that Mithril was about testing a new primer for painting. So far I have not heard of that any more.
Maybe they could send it with bus, boat or bike....
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You can use it Humbrol enamel http://www.humbrol.com/shop/paints/enam … mel-paint/ and use it with airbrush....
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Well, seriously, I don't want to miss that spray primer in the future and will try to find ways to get it again. Indeed it is not a primer produced by Mithril, the company producing it is from Britain. So, I'll see (at the moment I still keep enough of that to prime many more Mithril or Phaeton figures).
Yes, Master Thingol, before Mithril started to use it's current primer I also used Humbrol (Grey n° 1) which comes very close. But as I do not have an airbrush I had to be very careful in those days in adding more "liquid" to make it work to be used as a primer provided with a brush. If you are not that careful you smear the figures over so that all the tiny details are levelled and are extinguished. And ... the surface could turn to become too shiny.
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I just had a look on mithril web site, it is diffcult to identify the product with provided picture.
Master Ent, could have a look and tell me the exact reference for Mithril grey spray primer (in spray cans) please ?
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Dear Master Milo, since yesterday until the moment I am very much busy with two challenges that have to do with that "Thor-Vignette". That has to do with assembling and priming. -I will explain that later.
Master Milo, if I got you right you took the decision (at least) to present your very fine Mithril collection in a good way. That's good, I think, I took that decision some years ago. - So, all those unprimed parts of figures and especially the vignettes have to be primed in the best way to match them with the already grey-primed figures. I go along with that, as I took that same choice many years ago. The idea beyond is, if I get you right, to have a collection that is visible in glass cabinets giving the impression, that all this belongs together, did I get you right?
Well, yes, so we should start right here and not haste.
Indeed I would like to give some help here about primers and priming and things that have to do with it.
I'll get back a bit later, as I want to find out how that primer does on the resin parts of Thor.
Gruuuoooômmm as for anyone else around here ... this is in public and I'm not only talking to Master Milo ... huom
I'll get back later, be sure ...
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Well, yes, I think you need to have a figure in your hands and then prime it. Not until then you can tell about the quality and existance of the details. I do hate those thumbnail-sized pics from Mithril and especially Phaeton-Design. That's why I never comment on any pic of a figure about being released, if you remember that. Alas, this had to be said again.
I'll get back soon ... have to control, how the primer reacts to metal and resin (Thor again).
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To get back to your query, Master Milo. - Sorry, I cannot haste each and everything, as you know.
Er, fact is that Mithril has to agree to Irish laws about "Aviation Security Declaration" concerning shipping goods per airmail. That means that Master Lars Edman has to declare and certify that packages sent do not contain "any dangereous or prohibited goods". - So, sending spray cans via airmail are not prohibited, but they could be dangerous. - That's just laws, as far as I know and I'm sure about. - grrruooohmmm ... I will not comment on this here .... just believe me this is , what is fact, as far as I know.
lyes, indeed, it does annoy me too ... give me some time to go on, please ...
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Well Milo you have to consider it is a PRINCE AUGUST product, not a mithril one
here is the link of the primer : http://shop.princeaugust.ie/paints-and- … imer-grey/
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